Italy’s Ventotene Island ~ This Tiny Package Holds Big Surprises

Ventotene harbor

One of Ventotene’s scenic harbors

If the best things in life come in small packages, then Ventotene is a perfect example. Just a tiny island in the Tyrrhenian sea off the west coast of Italy, Ventotene is all of two miles long and almost a half mile wide. It is one of six islands called the Pontine Islands, of which Ponza is the largest and most developed.

The Romans discovered Ventotene over 2,000 years ago and named it Pandataria. Emperor Augustus banished his promiscuous daughter Giulia here in 2 BC. The crumbled remains of her prison-palace, Villa Giulia, can still be seen today.

The early Romans heavily used and depended on this small piece of land for very good reasons. Off the beaten tourist track today, this easily missed island packs a big punch.

This Is Your Time Travel Blog Tour Team

This Is Your Time Travel Blog Team ~ Avary Sassaman, Amy Gulick, Susan Nelson, Helena Norrman and Linnea Malmberg

My blog team, This Is Your Time, arrived in Ventotene for two days in September. We took a boat from Formia on the mainland and arrived in the modern port before reaching the old Roman port on foot. Built into the side of the volcanic island, the Roman port is lined with fisherman’s boats and scuba shops.

Ventotene is very photogenic and reminded me a little of the Greek islands. Breathtaking 360-degree views of the Mediterranean sea can be seen from several spots.

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Ventotene shows some island charm ~ Borgo dei Cacciatori hotel

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Strolling through the village on narrow uncrowded streets

Ventotene is very walkable. The streets are undeveloped and narrow, allowing only one small car to pass at a time. But the traffic is seldom, making for perfect walking and hiking.

Dinner happens late in Italy, so with good appetites we arrived at Restaurant il Giardino (The Garden Restaurant). Authentic and tasty island cuisine is served consisting of fish and seafood freshly selected from the Port of Ventotene each morning. Chef Candida Sportiello transforms this seafood into magical dishes that dazzle the eye while her son, Luca, serves them with flair. Take a look!

Restaurant Il Giardino, Ventotene

Something exotic being prepared in the kitchen of Restaurant Il Giardino, our choice for dinner

Freshly caught fish from surrounding ocean waters topped with tender green beans and island herbs dressed to perfection. Superb!!

Yum!

Creativity happens in the kitchen

Several other dishes arrived just as gorgeously displayed. Each one was well worth mouth-watering praise.

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Semifreddo (different consistency than ice cream and half-frozen ) Pistachio Gelato with crisp wafer and berry sauce. Pistachios are from Bronte (Sicily).

After dinner, we strolled through the village streets to the central square, Piazza Castello. The Town Hall commands center stage in matching yellow with white trim. A line of flags on poles grace the front. The piazza has a few cafes, alimentari and restaurants. But this is not the place for nightlife. It is quiet and serene. A lovely place to be for a mellow evening experience.

Central piazza in Ventotene

After dinner walk through the central piazza

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A street corner in the village

The next day for lunch, we were greeted with big smiles by Pina (center) and her family at their restaurant, Un Mare di Sapori. It is inside a grotto on the old Roman port. A table was prepared for us with great care. Wine was poured and island cuisine began to arrive in various dishes. The lentil is cultivated on the island, and the resulting soup that Pina served was absolutely delicious….earthy and flavorful.

Enoteca Un Mare di Sapori

Pina and her family at Un Mare di Sapori, their enoteca on the old Roman Port. I was touched by their gracious manners and welcoming smiles. 

Antipasti from the kitchen…four different kinds of cheese, olives, salami, artichoke, and eggplant rolls.

Antipasti

Antipasti

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Fresh sliced bread with octopus in a savory olive sauce

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We were served a bottle of delicious Falerno wine, made from a grape varietal cultivated in first century Rome. It was the favorite drink of the emperors and was also a red wine. In fact, Pliny mentions in his writings that it was the only wine that would ignite when a match was put to it. Falerno was obviously much higher in alcohol then!

Pina’s restaurant is also a shop with shelves of local products for sale.

Grotto on the Old Roman Port which is the location of the enoteca

Grotto on the old Roman Port where freshly caught fish are sold

A lighthouse rises on the edge of the rock at the old Roman Port. Santo Stefano Island with its sprawling prison stands just off to the left. Mussolini detained his adversaries here during WWII. The prison is now abandoned.

Lighthouse on the Old Roman Port

Lighthouse on the old Roman Port

Below the surface of the waters of Ventotene, evidence was found of five ancient Roman ships with cargoes of wine, olive oil and garum (fish sauce) still intact in large clay amphora. Ventotene was perfectly located on the trade route between Rome and North Africa.

Time to walk off all this good Ventotene cuisine!

Time to walk off all this good Ventotene cuisine!

Ventotene is rich with history, beginning with the Phoenicians and Greeks and continuing into the present. It was used as a listening post by a German garrison before being captured by allies in 1943.

Le Terazze di Mimmo for lunch!

La Terazza di Mimi is situated on a cliff wall overlooking the main beach of the island, Cala Nave, and the sea

The next day after a full morning of sight-seeing, we dined at La Terazza di Mimi. The ocean view and exotic dishes combined with sea-scented gentle breezes created a memory that will linger for many years.

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Awaiting our lunch with good appetites. We loved the ambience on the terrace with Mediterranean sparkle and gentle breeze. Santo Stefano in the distance.

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Squid ink pasta with crustaceans and vegetables. The ink is mixed into the pasta, creating a dark but tender noodle. I found this dish very tasty.

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Pasta with clams and mussels in a delicate wine sauce embellished with island herbs.

Pietro Penacchio owner of La Terazza di Mimmi restaurant in Ventotene

Pietro Penacchio chats with us at his restaurant, La Terazza di Mimi

Pietro owns the restaurant and has named it after his father Mimi. He shared his many exciting plans for the development of his properties on the island that is sure to increase tourism with a new, ecologically sound twist. He has a great love and respect for the natural environment of Ventotene.

Bright island flowers give sprightly accent to the shimmering Mediterranean.

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Ventotene has several terraced views that instill a strong sense of exotic ambience. My favorite location is the hotel Borgo dei Cacciatori. Owned by Pietro as well, it is in the process of a complete restoration. The new Borgo dei Cacciatori will be eco-friendly which includes the swimming pool. Earthy tones and colors of the island will be used to decorate the hotel, providing a peaceful and relaxing environment.

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Borgo dei Cacciatori

Imagine the large sweeping terrace on a warm evening. Long white tables are laden with sumptuous island cuisine and sparkling white wine. The Tyrrhenian ocean spreads out before you in a vast expanse reaching to the horizon. Surrounded by good friends, you watch the golden sun set as brilliant colors streak across the sky. Soft breezes caress warm faces and inspire a sense of well-being. Borgo dei Cacciatori is such a place.

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View of Santo Stefano from the terrace of Borgo dei Cacciatori

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Agave and Aloe grow in abundance on the island.

Barely touched by international tourism, Ventotene enjoys a natural existence. The subject of ancient Greek myth, Homer intended this to be the place where Ulysses confronted the sirens during his long journey home. Ventotene makes it easy to believe that they still exist today.

** More about Ventotene from a local website



Categories: History

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49 replies

  1. Heading there in 3 weeks, traveling alone, can you recommend a place to stay?

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Great article and congratulations for the nomination at Blog Awards 2014…

    Liked by 1 person

  3. I live in Puglia, Italy and I have never heard of this place. It looks so idyllic, and as you said, very Greek. I must plan a visit there! Thanks for sharing.

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  4. Susan, you’ve transported me once again! Thank you for the food and wine and the beautiful island!
    Best to you, Renate

    Liked by 1 person

  5. How beautiful, it does really remind me of the greek islands too. And the food you had is making me want to go back to Italy, delicious!

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  6. Susan, what a gorgeous place, and the food looks like reason enough to visit. I’m especially pleased to hear that it’s been mainly untouched by internationals. The story about the banished daughter made me giggle. Sounds like dads have forever been protective of their daughters (but he took it to a whole new level).

    Blessings ~ Wendy❀

    Liked by 1 person

  7. I can only say “ditto” to everyone else’s comments and impressions – looks so idyllic and wonderful…daydreaming as I type! Some day…

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  8. Seems like you guys had a great time. What a fun trip Susan 🙂

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  9. Thank you very much for this post. I had never heard of this gem, but now plan to visit it. Cheers!

    Liked by 1 person

  10. Wow!! What a stunning little place… I’ve never heard of it until now! Thank you for sharing the details and the amazing pictures 😀

    Liked by 1 person

  11. Gosh Susan…EVERYTHING is yum in this post…the food, the wine, the scenery!!! Beautiful!

    Liked by 1 person

  12. Oh what a beautiful place this is Susan, I’m with Pat, wish I could have been there too! Sounds idyllic, love your photos and your write-up, you’ve sold me! I love a place where walking is so easy and then those views…oh my! Thanks so much for taking me along with you even if not in the flesh, enjoyed every minute of it 😀

    Liked by 2 people

  13. Great most and good info!!!

    Liked by 1 person

  14. A great post> What an island, wonderful food too.

    Liked by 1 person

  15. You don’t know how much I was sitting at that table with you ladies. Ventotene sounds like a lovely place to visit — the scenes are gorgeous and food looks delicious (even to a person like me who is not a super seafood fan). Thanks for the introduction to this interesting island.

    Liked by 1 person

  16. Ps Susan. What is
    This is your time blog team

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  17. What a beautiful magical place. Your photos are fabulous. Very Mediterranean Thank you for introducing me to this lovely island. How do you know about Ventotene.

    Liked by 1 person

  18. Ahhh, so lovely, Susan, felt as if I was there. It looks to be so quaint and beautiful, especially overlooking the spectacular Mediterranean. Everything about this place is appealing from the friendly people to the cuisine. Thank you for sharing this travel trip with us. I wish I could have been on your blog team, my friend. 🙂

    Liked by 2 people

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